Skincare & Hair Care Ingredients Glossary — Pellis Health Care Pakistan
Our Ingredients
— What Goes Into
Every Pellis Product
Every active ingredient in every Pellis Health Care product is selected on the basis of clinical evidence, dermatologist validation, and long-term safety testing. This is our complete skincare and hair care ingredients glossary — what each ingredient is, how it works at the cellular and molecular level, and precisely why we chose it for Pakistani skin.
We Choose Ingredients by Evidence, Not Trend
At Pellis Health Care, our ingredient selection process starts with one question: what does this specific skin or scalp condition biologically require — and which compounds have peer-reviewed, dermatologist-validated evidence to deliver it?
Pakistan's environment creates unique skin and hair challenges: intense UV radiation, hard water mineral deposits, heat-driven sebum dysregulation, and nutritional gaps that compound topical issues. Standard imported formulas were never designed for these conditions. Every Pellis ingredient is selected and dosed with the Pakistani consumer in mind.
We never include an ingredient to make a label look impressive. We never use steroids, mercury, hydroquinone, parabens, or harsh stripping agents. Every active earns its place in our formula by doing something specific, measurable, and safe.
Hair Growth & Anti-Hair Fall Actives
The clinically recognised compounds in our hair care range that target the real biological mechanisms behind hair loss — DHT, disrupted growth cycles, nutritional deficiency, and follicle weakening. Found in our Capti Clear Anti Hair Fall Shampoo.
What it does: Procapil is a patented tri-complex by Sederma (France) that targets androgenetic alopecia — the leading cause of hair thinning in Pakistani men and women. Its three components work synergistically: oleanolic acid inhibits 5-alpha-reductase to block DHT conversion at the follicle; apigenin (chamomile flavonoid) dilates scalp blood vessels for improved microcirculation; and biotinoyl tripeptide-1 anchors the dermal papilla to prevent premature follicle detachment and shedding.
Clinical evidence: Studies show up to 121% improvement in hair anchoring strength and 46% reduction in hair fall after consistent application. Procapil is the core reason our hair formula outperforms conventional anti-hair fall shampoos available in Pakistan.
What it does: Anagain is an organic pea sprout extract that targets the hair growth cycle directly. When too many follicles enter the telogen (resting) phase simultaneously — triggered by stress, hormonal shifts, nutritional deficiency, or seasonal changes common in Pakistan — diffuse shedding becomes visible. Anagain stimulates dermal papilla signalling molecules, pushing follicles back into the anagen (active growth) phase and rebalancing the anagen-to-telogen ratio.
Clinical evidence: Clinical studies demonstrate a 78% increase in the anagen-to-telogen ratio with Anagain use, meaning significantly more follicles stay in active growth and fewer shed simultaneously. This directly reduces the daily hair loss that most people in Pakistan attribute to stress or diet alone.
What it does: Every hair strand is composed primarily of keratin — a structural fibrous protein that cannot be synthesised without Biotin as its essential co-factor. When Biotin is deficient (extremely common in Pakistani women, particularly post-partum), hair becomes brittle, thin, and prone to excessive shedding. Topical Biotin in a well-formulated base delivers this vital nutrient directly to the scalp, supporting keratin infrastructure, improving tensile strength, and reinforcing each follicle's nutritional support through improved microcirculation.
Why it matters for Pakistan: Biotin deficiency is among the most commonly identified nutritional contributors to hair fall in Pakistani women. Our shampoo delivers it topically at therapeutic concentration for direct follicle benefit, complementing any dietary intake.
What it does: Panthenol converts to pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5) on contact with hair and skin. In the hair shaft, it penetrates the cortex and coats micro-cracks in the cuticle layer — visibly adding diameter, smoothness, and shine to each strand. It reduces split ends, tames frizz caused by hard water, pollution, and heat styling, and measurably improves hair manageability. On the scalp, it acts as a humectant-emollient, reducing inflammation and transepidermal water loss.
Immediate benefit: Panthenol delivers visible conditioning results from the very first wash — providing the immediate sensory improvement that complements the longer-term hair growth results from Procapil and Anagain.
What it does in hair care: Chronic low-grade scalp inflammation is a critical but often overlooked driver of hair fall, particularly prevalent in Pakistani climates with heat and humidity. Niacinamide inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokines on the scalp, improves microvascular circulation to ensure adequate oxygen and nutrient delivery to each follicle, and strengthens the scalp's epidermal barrier to reduce sebum dysregulation. It also supports the follicle environment for optimal growth cycle function.
Dual-use active: Niacinamide is one of the few actives that earns its place in both our hair care and face care ranges — with different but equally documented mechanisms in each context.
What it does: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate is the primary cleansing agent in Capti Clear — a mild, sulfate-free surfactant derived from coconut fatty acids. Unlike SLS and SLES (which strip the scalp's natural lipid barrier, trigger rebound oil production, and damage cuticles), SCI cleanses effectively at scalp and hair shaft level while preserving the protective sebum layer. It creates a light, conditioning lather that rinses cleanly without residue — critical for Pakistan's hard water conditions.
Why no SLS: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate irritates the scalp, disrupts the microbiome, and can directly damage follicle cells. In our formula, this choice protects the very environment the actives are working to improve.
Skin Brightening & Pigmentation Actives
Clinically studied tyrosinase inhibitors and melanin modulators that safely fade dark spots, even skin tone, and restore natural radiance — without steroids, hydroquinone, or mercury. Found in our Maxwell L-Glutathione Brightening Cream.
What it does: L-Glutathione is the body's most abundant endogenous antioxidant and a potent melanin modulator. Topically, it interrupts the tyrosinase enzyme pathway — the primary biochemical cascade responsible for melanin synthesis. By inhibiting tyrosinase activity, it reduces melanin production in pigmented cells (melanocytes), gradually lightening existing hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and post-inflammatory marks. Simultaneously, its antioxidant capacity neutralises free radicals generated by UV exposure that cause oxidative skin damage, dullness, and accelerated ageing.
Why it matters for Pakistani skin: UV radiation in Pakistan stimulates chronically elevated melanin synthesis. L-Glutathione addresses this at the enzymatic source — not just the surface — for results that are visible and lasting.
What it does: Derived from bearberry leaf, Alpha Arbutin is the safest and most evidence-backed brightening active for South Asian and Pakistani skin tones. It releases slowly in the skin, providing a sustained, gentle inhibition of tyrosinase without the sensitivity risk, paradoxical darkening risk, or potential toxicity associated with hydroquinone. It effectively reduces dark spots, hyperpigmentation, sun damage marks, post-acne discolouration, and uneven skin tone across all Pakistani skin types — including sensitive and acne-prone complexions.
Why we chose Alpha Arbutin over hydroquinone: Hydroquinone carries real risks of ochronosis (paradoxical darkening) with prolonged use on melanin-rich South Asian skin. Alpha Arbutin provides equivalent brightening efficacy with a vastly superior safety profile — this matters deeply for our long-term customer relationships.
What it does: Mulberry root extract contains oxyresveratrol — one of the most potent naturally occurring tyrosinase inhibitors identified in dermatological research. It works through a different biochemical pathway than L-Glutathione and Alpha Arbutin, providing complementary melanin suppression and enhancing overall brightening efficacy through synergistic action. Particularly effective for tan lines, sun-induced hyperpigmentation, and overall uneven skin tone common in Pakistani skin exposed to year-round intense UV radiation.
Synergistic effect: When combined with L-Glutathione in Maxwell, Mulberry Extract amplifies brightening results significantly — three actives targeting melanin through three distinct pathways means comprehensive, faster-visible improvement.
What it does: Liquorice root provides glabridin — one of the most clinically validated natural compounds for both brightening and anti-inflammatory action. Glabridin disperses melanin clusters within existing pigmented areas, reduces inflammation that triggers post-acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and soothing irritated skin. PIH is disproportionately common in Pakistani skin types with darker baseline pigmentation — even minor acne or friction can leave lasting dark marks that glabridin specifically targets.
Particularly relevant for Pakistan: Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne is one of the most common skin concerns across all age groups in Pakistan. Liquorice root in Maxwell directly addresses this mechanism.
Hydration, Barrier Repair & Emollient Actives
The foundational skin barrier ingredients in our moisturising range — scientifically proven to lock in moisture, repair lipid deficiency, and restore structural integrity to dry, cracked, and compromised skin. Found in Max Hydro Moisturizer and D Mix Emollient Cream.
What it does: Glycerine is a proven humectant — it draws water molecules from the atmosphere and deeper skin layers into the stratum corneum, creating a sustained moisture reservoir in the skin. It also supports the skin microbiome, reinforces the natural moisturising factor (NMF), and enhances the absorption and efficacy of every other active it is formulated with. Glycerine's safety and tolerability profile is virtually universal — suited for all ages, skin types, and sensitivities.
Foundation ingredient: Glycerine appears in Maxwell Brightening Cream specifically because brightening actives perform optimally in a well-hydrated skin environment. Dehydrated skin resists active ingredient penetration — Glycerine ensures delivery.
What it does: Urea is a natural constituent of the skin's own Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF). At lower concentrations (5–10%), it acts as a powerful humectant and emollient — softening thickened, rough skin and drawing moisture deep into the stratum corneum. At higher concentrations, it provides gentle keratolytic (exfoliating) action that removes dry, dead surface cells from calloused and cracked skin. For chronically dry skin on heels, knees, elbows, and hands, urea is the clinically first-line ingredient.
Dermatology standard: Urea-based creams are prescribed by dermatologists worldwide for dry skin conditions including xerosis, eczema, ichthyosis, and severely cracked skin — the same conditions our Max Hydro and D Mix formulas address.
What it does: Lactic Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from fermented milk. In moisturising formulations at lower concentrations, it primarily functions as a powerful humectant and natural moisturising factor component — hydrating at the cellular level while gently loosening the bonds between dead skin cells for smoother surface texture. It improves the skin's capacity to retain water, making it especially effective for chronically dry, rough, and scaly skin that resists improvement with standard moisturisers.
Why combine with Urea: Urea and Lactic Acid work through complementary mechanisms — together they achieve significantly deeper moisturisation and surface renewal than either ingredient alone, which is why Max Hydro delivers results on even severely dry and cracked skin.
What they do: Ceramides are lipid molecules that constitute approximately 50% of the skin's epidermal barrier. They form the structural "mortar" between skin cells, creating a waterproof, protective barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and blocks environmental aggressors including pollutants, bacteria, and allergens. Ceramide deficiency is the foundational cause of most chronic dry skin conditions — eczema, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and severely cracked skin. Topical ceramide replenishment restores the barrier lipid matrix, visibly reducing dryness, flaking, and irritation within days.
Rapid visible results: Clinical studies demonstrate that ceramide-containing formulations produce measurable improvement in barrier function and moisture retention within 3–5 days of regular application — faster than any other barrier-repair category of ingredients.
UV Protection & Antioxidant Actives
The broad-spectrum UV filters and antioxidant actives in our Sun Beat SPF 60 sunblock — designed for Pakistan's high UV index environment to prevent photoageing, pigmentation, and sun damage on South Asian skin.
What it does: Zinc Oxide is a mineral (physical) UV filter that reflects and scatters both UVA and UVB radiation across the full solar spectrum. Unlike chemical UV filters that absorb and convert UV energy (and can degrade, cause sensitivity, or penetrate the skin barrier), Zinc Oxide sits on the skin surface and works immediately upon application — no waiting time. It is photostable (does not break down in sunlight), non-comedogenic, non-irritating, and uniquely appropriate for sensitive, acne-prone, and post-procedure skin.
Pakistan's UV challenge: Pakistan records some of the highest UV index readings in South Asia — 8–11 from April to September. Zinc Oxide's physical barrier mechanism provides the most reliable and immediate protection against this level of UV load, critical for preventing melanin overproduction in Pakistani skin.
What it does: Titanium Dioxide is a second mineral UV filter that works in tandem with Zinc Oxide in Sun Beat SPF 60. It provides excellent UVB protection and contributes to the overall SPF rating through physical reflectance. Micronised Titanium Dioxide in modern formulations leaves minimal white cast — a critical formulation consideration for darker Pakistani skin tones where traditional mineral sunscreens were historically avoided due to an ashy finish. Combined with Zinc Oxide, it provides comprehensive UVA+UVB defence.
Formulated for Pakistani skin tones: Sun Beat SPF 60 uses micronised particle technology to minimise the white cast traditionally associated with mineral sunscreens, making it practical for daily use on medium to deep Pakistani skin tones.
What it does: Vitamin C is a potent topical antioxidant that neutralises reactive oxygen species (free radicals) generated when UV radiation penetrates the skin. While UV filters prevent UV from reaching the skin, no sunscreen blocks 100% of UV — Vitamin C acts as the second line of defence, neutralising the free radicals that do get through before they can cause DNA damage, collagen breakdown, and melanin overproduction. It also inhibits tyrosinase, contributing to the anti-pigmentation action alongside UV protection in our sunblock.
Sunscreen amplifier: Research shows that pairing topical Vitamin C with UV filters increases overall photoprotection significantly compared to UV filters alone — making Sun Beat SPF 60 more than just a physical barrier.
Acne, Pore Care & Sebum-Regulating Actives
The clinically studied keratolytic and antimicrobial actives in our face care range that address the root causes of acne, blocked pores, and oily skin — without stripping or disrupting the skin microbiome. Found in S.S Anti-Acne Face Wash.
What it does: Salicylic Acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) and the gold-standard keratolytic for acne-prone and oily skin. Unlike AHAs which are water-soluble and work on the skin surface, Salicylic Acid is oil-soluble — it penetrates into and through the pore lining, dissolving the excess sebum and dead skin cell debris that clog pores and form comedones (blackheads, whiteheads, and acne papules). It also has documented anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial properties that reduce existing acne inflammation and prevent new breakouts.
Particularly relevant for Pakistan: Oily, acne-prone skin is the most common skin concern across Pakistani urban populations — driven by heat, humidity, pollution, and dietary factors. Salicylic Acid in S.S Anti-Acne Face Wash directly decongests pores and reduces breakout frequency from the very first week of use.
What they do in acne care: Including Ceramides in an acne face wash is a deliberately protective choice. Salicylic Acid and surfactants in cleansers can disrupt the skin's epidermal barrier if the formulation is not carefully balanced. Ceramides in S.S Anti-Acne Face Wash replenish barrier lipids as they cleanse — preventing the dryness, tightness, and rebound oiliness that many acne cleansers cause. The result is thorough pore-clearing without compromising the skin's protective barrier — critical for acne-prone skin already under inflammatory stress.
Barrier-smart acne care: Dermatologists increasingly recommend ceramide-containing cleansers for acne patients precisely because barrier disruption worsens long-term acne outcomes by creating inflammation and microbiome imbalance.
What it does: Mandelic Acid is a large-molecule AHA derived from bitter almond extract. Its larger molecular size means it penetrates the skin more slowly and gently than glycolic acid — making it especially appropriate for acne-prone and sensitive South Asian skin that can react to more aggressive AHAs. It exfoliates the skin surface to prevent dead cell buildup that feeds acne-causing bacteria, has inherent antibacterial properties against P. acnes, and helps fade post-acne hyperpigmentation marks — the dark spots that often remain long after the acne itself resolves.
Ideal for Pakistani skin: Mandelic Acid's gentler penetration profile makes it one of the best AHA options for darker Pakistani skin tones where more aggressive acids can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — the exact problem we are trying to prevent.
Our Ingredient Selection Philosophy
Every ingredient in every Pellis Health Care product passes through a rigorous evaluation before it is included in any formula. We follow a three-stage process: clinical evidence review (peer-reviewed research and documented mechanisms), dermatologist validation (review by qualified dermatologists for suitability to Pakistani skin), and long-term safety assessment (evaluation of any known risks for chronic use on South Asian skin types).
We are deeply aware that the Pakistani skincare market contains many products with harmful ingredients — particularly steroids, mercury, and hydroquinone hidden in brightening creams, and SLS in hair care products marketed as "gentle." Our commitment is complete transparency about what is in our products and why. If an ingredient cannot pass our evidence and safety criteria, it does not enter our formulas — regardless of cost or market convention.
What We Never Include — And Why
We believe transparency means telling you not just what is in our products — but what is deliberately absent. These are the ingredients we exclude from every Pellis formulation, and the specific reasons why each one is a risk we are not willing to take with your skin.
See These Ingredients in Action
Every active described on this page is available right now in one of our products — formulated at therapeutic concentrations and backed by our 14-day money-back guarantee.
Frequently Asked Questions
Understanding Skincare Ingredients — A Guide for Pakistani Consumers
Pakistan's skincare market has grown rapidly in recent years, but ingredient literacy — the ability to read a label and understand what each compound actually does — remains limited. Unscrupulous brands exploit this gap by including harmful actives like steroids and mercury, hiding them behind impressive-sounding marketing claims, or using safe ingredient names on packaging while the actual formula contains different compounds entirely.
What Are Cosmeceutical Actives?
Cosmeceuticals sit at the boundary between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals — they contain biologically active ingredients that produce measurable physiological changes in skin and hair, but are formulated and sold as cosmetics. Examples from our range include Procapil™ (a patented anti-hair loss active), Alpha Arbutin (a melanin suppressant), and Ceramides (barrier repair lipids). These are not the same as fragrance or filler ingredients — they have specific, documented mechanisms and require correct concentration and formulation to be effective.
Why "Natural" Doesn't Always Mean Safe (and "Chemical" Doesn't Always Mean Harmful)
A common misconception in the Pakistani skincare conversation is that natural ingredients are inherently safer than synthetic ones. Mercury is natural. Many plant-derived compounds are highly irritating. Conversely, Sodium Hyaluronate (synthetic Hyaluronic Acid) is among the safest and most effective hydration actives available — and Ceramides, while identical to what your skin naturally produces, can be synthetically derived in a lab at pharmaceutical consistency. We evaluate ingredients on their clinical evidence and safety profiles — not their origin story.
How to Read a Skincare Ingredient List (INCI)
The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list on every product is ordered by concentration — from highest to lowest. Water (Aqua) typically appears first. Active ingredients like Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, or L-Glutathione should appear in the first half of the list to be at meaningful concentrations. Ingredients listed last are present in trace amounts (less than 1%). When evaluating any skincare product in Pakistan, look for the actives in the upper half of the INCI list — and look for steroids, hydroquinone, and mercury anywhere on the list.
- Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration
- Active ingredients should appear in the top 50% of the list to be effective
- Fragrance listed early in the list suggests high fragrance concentration — a common sensitiser
- Check for corticosteroid names (betamethasone, clobetasol, fluocinolone) in brightening creams
- Check for mercurous chloride, mercury, or ammoniated mercury in any skin lightening product
- Parabens appear as methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, or ethylparaben
Skincare Actives Most Relevant to Pakistani Skin Concerns
The most common skin concerns reported by Pakistani consumers are: hyperpigmentation and dark spots (sun damage, post-acne marks, melasma), acne and oily skin (driven by heat, humidity, and hormonal factors), hair fall and thinning (DHT, nutritional deficiency, stress, hard water), dry and cracked skin (dry winters, hard water, barrier damage), and uneven skin tone (UV-triggered melanin overproduction). Every ingredient in our range was specifically selected to address one or more of these conditions with evidence-based mechanisms.
Every Ingredient Earned Its Place.
Every Formula Backed by Science.
Explore the products behind these ingredients. Cash on Delivery across all of Pakistan. Backed by a 14-day money-back guarantee on every order.